As I wrote in the ‘About’ section when I started this blog ten months ago, I had become inspired to write as a direct result of my participation in yelp.com. Ironically, Yelp is now the same reason why I will be putting my blog on hold in the foreseeable future. In November, I was delighted and honored to accept the position of Community Manager for Philly Yelp. This position is a chance to do what I love for a living, and I am so happy and grateful for the opportunity.
Thanks to everyone who took a moment to stop by An Empty Fridge in the past year. If you would like to read my reviews on Yelp, my profile can be found at michellecass.yelp.com. Also, sign up for the Weekly Yelp (comprised by yours truly starting on 1/5/11!) here. Make sure to select the Philadelphia issue!
Cheers and SYOY (see you on Yelp)!
Michelle C.
The hype on this place is at a fever pitch, but frankly, I’m not quite convinced that I need a seat on the bandwagon.
The rustic, candlelit dining room is warm and welcoming, but the seating arrangements are entirely too cozy. Tables are packed so tightly together that even Gumby would have to MacGyver his way into the banquette side. I witnessed a gentleman on what was undoubtedly a first or second date, one that was meant to impress, who was squeezed so tightly into a corner that it appeared his entire right side was immobile. But I’m sure his date was happy to be dining at the hottest restaurant in town.
My own table seemed slightly more comfortable. My date and I arrived at the end of the dinner rush, so many of the tables around us started to clear out as our evening progressed. Our server was pleasant and very knowledgeable about the wine list, which she helped me navigate to find a wine I enjoyed for the duration of our meal (the Verdejo – great for Sauvignon Blanc lovers).
Our first bite was a seasonal (at the time) salad special with mozzarella and a variety of tomatoes. It was well-flavored and promising. Next up was the salsiccia pizza, with sausage, olives and San Marzanos. The taste was incredible, although the style was different from some of the other brick oven pizzas around town. The crust had more of a chewy texture, but it was a fantastic pie regardless and one that I would certainly order again. The sprigs of dried oregano and hot pepper oil served alongside were the best effort in condiments that I’ve seen in a long time.
House-made pastas left me feeling less excited. The pacherri, with pork ragu and burrata, was a nice idea, but the noodles were too thick and detracted from the appeal of homemade pasta. The seared gnocchi didn’t sear my memory in any way; I honestly can’t recall a thing about the dish. A grilled bronzino was nice but nothing special.
Desserts picked up the pace just as my impressions of Barbuzzo started to flatline. The salted caramel budino was served in a mini mason jar and consisted of three beautiful layers of chocolate crust, rich caramel and tart whipped cream. The chocolate tasting was also presented beautifully on a small board with a map to guide our flavor journey.
Return visit?
Barbuzzo is a nice addition to the 13th Street scene, but it doesn’t get my vote for best new restaurant of the year. I’ll return to enjoy some pizza and wine at the bar, nonetheless.
Barbuzzo
110 S. 13th Street
Philadelphia, PA 19107
barbuzzo.com
When Jose Garces opens a new restaurant in Philly, you book a reservation with the quickness if you don’t want to be clueless at the water cooler. On opening Friday in mid-October, I happily slid myself onto the inviting black leather cushion of a large booth near the open kitchen at JG Domestic, along with three others.
Our meal that evening was solid but not without flaws. Drinks were slow to arrive and one of the entrees showed up casually late by at least ten minutes. In a matter of just a few weeks, however, the kinks from our first visit appeared to be worked out. I returned last night as the guest of a media dinner invitee (full disclosure), and the pace of our meal could not have been better.
There was some overlap of items on both visits, and it was interesting to see the subtle tweaks that took place in the time between. Cheese and charcuterie offerings were delicious on both evenings. We saw the same cheeses from the first night on our second (portions were noticeably larger on night two). A triple cream with truffle-specked apple compote was delicious, especially so when spread over the house made buns, hot out of the oven and served in a cast iron dish. The prosciutto was swiftly wrapped around cheeses and croutes and savored to the fullest. My compliments to the swine.
The wood oven flatbread, topped with chanterelles, black truffle, tangy cheddar and micro arugula, was easily one of my favorite items out of the two visits (and I claim to not like mushrooms). The flavors were incredible. A crab gratin, on the other hand, was a little too fishy for both me and my date.
Both visits included the heirloom potato cassoulet. On our first trip, I thought the medley of cheddar-topped fingerlings was served over sautéed onions. Our second batch yielded a different taste that I knew from my grandmom’s Polish cooking to be cabbage, and a check of the menu confirmed this. I enjoyed the rustic flavors (and the varied taste from one meal to the next) but felt that the addition of andouille sausage was a bit excessive, especially because the main courses are rich in their own right.
On night one, I enjoyed the Wagyu skirt steak, served medium rare with lightly fried green chiles, blue cheese and super smoky cippolini onions. In a conversation with one of the servers, it was revealed that some guests have complained about the cooler temperature of the dish. I noticed this myself, but I suppose medium rare strips of steak can hardly be expected to stay piping hot for very long. I might order this again, but if not, it will surely be because the wild boar is already on my agenda. Served on the bone and over some downright delicious grits, with flavor-packed wilted greens and sesame glaze, the boar is a must-try. I would urge people to order the dish sooner than later; boar is a seasonal item.
Also not to be missed at JG Domestic are the desserts, each focused on a particular flavor. I’ve tasted the huckleberry (bright and slightly tart), the pear and the pumpkin desserts. Quite honestly, these creations would be memorable in their own right had they not immediately been followed by the beignets. New Orleans, eat your heart out. JG Domestic’s version has the traditional powdered sugar-topped fried puffs served alongside a bourbon vanilla mousseline and – wait for it – Maker’s Mark butterscotch.
A NOTE ABOUT MAKER’S MARK BUTTERSCOTCH: May cause involuntary swearing (quietly, of course), speaking in tongues and offers to do unspeakable things if only your dining partner allow you that last bite of beignet to dip. Bring a date, order the beignets, and enjoy the rest of your evening (wink). Ask nicely and you may even score a list of ingredients that comprise this most addictive syrup.
Last but not least is the beverage program. One of my favorite beers all year has made an appearance on the menu, Cellar Door by Stillwater Ales. Careful; the mark-up is fierce, but you won’t find this beer in many places around town so it’s a nice indulgence. For wine drinkers, the $8 Zinfandel is a worthy partner to rich starters and meat based entrees alike. Cocktails are also made with seasonal ingredients, and I enjoyed the bourbon-based Adirondack and Crescent cocktails. Both are fresh and light enough for those drinkers who are usually on the clear-liquor side of the fence.
Return visit?
Yes. Ohhh yes. YES! YES!! YES!!!
JG Domestic
Cira Centre, Ground Floor
2929 Arch Street
Philadelphia, PA 19104
jgdomestic.com
The only thing you need to know about this bowl of clam chowder is that underneath the smooth and creamy surface you see here, a bounty of tender clams and the smallest hint of fresh dill await in the broth. Oh yeah, and the head chef at Black Pearl trained under Philly’s own Georges Perrier. Black Pearl | Bannister’s Wharf | Newport, RI 02840 | blackpearlnewport.com
For an equally delish yet slightly unorthodox version, head next door to The Mooring and order the scallop chowder. The Mooring | 1 Sayers Wharf | Newport, RI 02840 | mooringrestaurant.com
Few things in this world are more satisfying than a bloody Mary-filled brunchfest after a night on the town. Several weekends ago, I awoke feeling like death and in dire need of reinforcements. A 14-block pilgrimage to the Royal was made in the name of brunching somewhere new-to-me. By the time we arrived, I was parched and starving. Fortunately, a table was available and we were plied with water straightaway.
Food decisions don’t come easily for me to begin with and after a night of boozin’, they are even harder. I eventually settled on a mimosa for my beverage. Moments after the drinks arrived, I knew I should have chosen salty over sweet. Seeing the cocktail envy in my eyes, my companion traded drinks with me and I happily sucked down one amazing bloody Mary, complete with a giant olive and deli pickle spear.
Next up was the food. I completely disregarded the Cuban omelet across the table. Delish as it looked, I had my own plate to conquer: grilled chicken and prosciutto on buttery toast, with arugula, thinly sliced pears, blue cheese and lavender-honey mustard. Alongside was a serving of skin-on fries, flecked with salt and served alongside malted vinegar mayo for dipping. The sandwich was out of control delicious, which only made me wonder why it took so damn long for me to check the place out to begin with. Service was great during our meal and water glasses were refreshed as quickly as I could drain them, a feat in itself.
Return visit?
ASAP, preferably without the hangover.
Royal Tavern
937 E Passyunk Ave
Philadelphia, PA 19147
royaltavern.com
With a housewarming shindig to attend in NoLibs later in the evening, it was decided that the newest Dmitri’s incarnation would be the perfect spot to grab a bite beforehand. We arrived to a loud dining room with two frenzied servers and a hostess bustling about. When asked if we had reservations, we were a bit surprised because we weren’t aware that they took them. Nonetheless, a high top table located just in front of the open kitchen opened up, and we were seated there.
Our wine was opened, glasses of water filled and specials recited in the blink of an eye. I barely had time to peruse the menu before my order was taken. Because of the packed tables and hurried nature of the staff members, we assumed we would be waiting a bit to get our food, but we couldn’t have been more wrong. The Greek salad and fried cheese we ordered to start were delivered just minutes after the bread. The salad was farm fresh with tomatoes, cucumbers, red onion, olives, green peppers, hunks of feta and a zippy vinaigrette. The cheese was very generously portioned (expect one order to feed 2 – 4 people easily) and liberally sprinkled with rosemary.
As we were about halfway through our starters, I was shocked when our mains were dropped at the table. At this point, I started to feel annoyed at being so rushed through our dinner. Despite this, the grilled octopus was cooked to perfection and the shrimp scampi was nice, though I would have preferred a bit more lemon or wine in the sauce. Also, we hadn’t fully realized everything on the menu came a la carte. I would have happily added a veg in the event of an up-sell, but no suggestion of a vegetable or side was made by our server.
It was towards the end of our dinner (we passed on dessert) that we noticed a commotion at the next high top. A debit card had gone missing somewhere on its way to being processed. As the owner of the card grew more and more hysterical, the staff didn’t do much other than shrug and suggest that it would turn up by the end of the night. The dinner was eventually comped, but the party of four left card-less and pissed off. Meanwhile, the server tried to gain our sympathies by complaining about the woman’s attitude to us, the neighboring diners! This was the last eye-rolling straw for me, as what was supposed to be a relaxing dinner felt more like an express lunch at a chain.
It is also of note that we noticed bread, lemon wedges and other items dropping off of plates as they were being relayed from the kitchen. Not once were any of these things picked up, even after the missing card caused staff members to search the floor in our area. The spilled grub was ignored, and a pita triangle traveled halfway across the floor of the restaurant during the 45 minutes we dined.
Return visit?
No. I’ll stick with the Pine Street locale, where sometimes too-leisurely service is still preferred over the bum rush.
Dmitri’s
944 N 2nd St
Philadelphia, PA 19123
dmitrisrestaurant.com
I have been an absolute slacker lately with writing content for this blog. It’s not that I haven’t been out and about lately, I’ve just been lacking the extra time and motivation to write. That said, I attended The Institute’s 2nd annual Pumpkin Beer Event on Saturday, and when friends noticed me taking notes on the day’s brews, it was suggested that I throw my findings up as a blog post. Genius! Rest assured, I did not drink full servings of all the beers listed below, but I did sample each and every one. As the day grew longer, I think my taste buds became a bit wary. The last few descriptions in particular are questionable at best and should be taken with a grain of salt. However, if you’re a pumpkin beer novice just looking for some pointers, this will hopefully prove helpful as you wander down the seasonals aisle of your local distributor. Cheers!
Southern Tier Pumking – 9% ABV: This was my first beer of the day, and probably one of my favorites. It was smooth, not overly pumpkiny and very strong.
Brooklyn Post Road – 5% ABV: To me, this beer smelled like butterscotch, which turned me off immediately for some reason. I was not into it, and I don’t think it is a good representation of what a pumpkin beer should be.
Dock Street Great Pumpkin – 5.9% ABV: Pumpkin what? Pumpkin who? I wasn’t picking up much, if any, pumpkin flavor out of this brew. Perhaps it would be a good one to try for those who aren’t sure if they like pumpkin beer.
Wolaver’s Pumpkin Ale – 5.35% ABV: This one had more flavor than Dock Street’s version, but was still a little bland. Again, it would be a good option for a beginner.
Weyerbacher Imperial Pumpkin – 8% ABV: Clearly, I like the stronger beers. This one had nice, balanced spice, and it reminded me of Christmas.
Southampton Pumpkin Ale – 6% ABV: My notes under this one read, “Just say no!” This beer tasted so off to me, I sent it back. I was told by a few others that the beer is usually all right, so maybe this particular keg was off or something. Maybe I just don’t like this beer. Either way, I’ll taste it again if someone else is ordering, but now I’m skeptical.
Elysian Night Owl Pumpkin – 5.9% ABV: This was a standard pumpkin beer. I found it very drinkable.
River Horse Hip-O-Lantern – 9% ABV: Another strong one, this reminded me of a pumpkin-scented sister to some of my favorite barleywines. Think Old Horizontal with a fall twist.
New Holland Ichabod Pumpkin Ale – 4.8% ABV: Spicy. Not my favorite.
SixPoint Pumpkin Brewster – 5.5% ABV: This brew had a mild pumpkin flavor and a lager taste. I wrote, “If Yuengling came out with a pumpkin beer.” Which I’m sure is exactly what the folks at SixPoint were going for… Cute name, nonetheless.
Rock Art Imperial Spruce Pumpkin Stout – 8% ABV: Traditional stout; no discerning pumpkin characteristics. I am NOT a stout girl, but if you dig them, you may be into this one.
Brew Works Devious Imperial Pumpkin – 9% ABV: I recall nothing about this beer but my notes say, “Very good. Very strong. Me Jane.” (Just kidding about that last part.)
Arcadia Jaw Jacker – ABV 6%: Apparently, at this point I didn’t even trust my own instincts, because my notes say, “The masses said it didn’t taste like pumpkin… [to me] it tasted like nice spices, maybe not pumpkin.” Whatever that means.
Final note: I would be remiss if I didn’t comment on The Institute’s role in this very fun event. As always, the bartenders were helpful, sweet and patient. I didn’t get to taste any of the pumpkin-themed food specials, but I do know from experience that the pumpkin mac and cheese, a regular on the menu any time of year, is some of the best mac around.
Return visit?
You know it.
The Institute
549 N. 12th St. (12th & Green)
Philadelphia, PA 19123
institutebar.com
For me, a solid work day lunch consists of fresh, healthy ingredients that won’t make me feel like a sloth for the rest of the afternoon, with a modest price tag to boot. The Haddon Township area offers more than enough restaurant options, but inexpensive, healthy take-out lunches are harder to come by. Here are my favorite spots to grab and go, for ten dollars or less:
Animo Juice – If you pass this place regularly and have never been inside, do yourself a favor and stop in. In addition to all the fresh fruit juice and smoothie concoctions, Animo’s arsenal consists of healthy wraps, burritos, petitos (that’s a smaller-sized burrito), frozen bananas (pushed through a machine to give the bananas an ice cream-like consistency), homemade soups like carrot ginger and split pea, and tasty salads with a zesty vinaigrette. My go-to is a Mission Street petito (cheese, brown rice, beans and either chicken or roasted veggies), with sides of pico de gallo, jalapenos and homemade hot sauce. Said hot sauce is seriously different from your standard bottled sauces, and very addicting. Animo is also open in the morning, with breakfast petitos available. Return visit? I’m actually a little embarrassed by just how often I am there. Animo Juice | 113 Kings Highway, Haddonfield, NJ 08033 | animojuicecafe.com
Apron – If it hadn’t been for the random copy of South Jersey magazine I recently came across, I may not have discovered Apron, a cute little lunchery that makes homemade comfort food using local ingredients whenever possible. The “Lunch Box” comes with two choices of the following: soup, half a sandwich or wrap, a half salad or a slice of quiche. On my visit, I chose the chicken tortilla soup and half of a carved turkey sandwich on multigrain, with romaine and fresh cranberry sauce. My lunch topped out around $8.50, including tax, and I felt like I was eating something my mom or grandmom put together for me. Apron also has hot entrees that can be purchased in individual portions as well as in larger sizes to feed the family or serve at a party. Return visit? I can’t wait to try the quiche! Apron | 47 Kings Highway, Haddonfield, NJ 08033 | theaprononline.com
Woksabi – Technically, Woksabi isn’t a grab and go lunch spot, but all it takes is a quick phone call about twenty minutes before you want to chow down and you can simply swing by and pick up your eats. The $8 combo rolls lunch special is a steal. The rolls are basic but always delish, with twenty options to choose from. Green salad or miso soup is served alongside, making for a filling lunch minus the guilt. Return visit? They definitely know my voice, and probably my order, whenever I call. Woksabi | 608 Haddon Ave., Collingswood, NJ 08108 | woksabi.com
Working my (extremely) part-time job at a popular BYO in the ’burbs has advantages that extend beyond bringing home some extra bacon and tasting great food. It also allows me to take advantage of industry specials, including Amis Industry Night, which takes place on the first Monday of every month. Residual weekend guilt, combined with my 9 to 5, always kept me from attending in the past, but when I heard Marc Vetri was teaming up with Jose Garces for September’s event, the decision to go was a no-brainer.
Amis was buzzing by the 10 p.m. start time, a small line forming at the door. Once inside, I grabbed a glass of house white (Amis’ regular happy hour drink specials apply on Industry Night, in addition to other offerings) and proceeded straight to the side door, where Garces’ brand spankin’ new food truck, Guapos Tacos, was parked in all its shiny bottle cap-coated glory.
Throughout the night, I tried each of the truck’s offerings, swapping halves with my boyfriend. We were in agreement that the lengua (tongue) tacos were the best. The strips of beef were marinated in a tangy sauce and topped with cilantro and onion. (Sidenote: if you had told me a month ago that I would be ordering tongue tacos on my own free will, I never would have believed it. A friend convinced me to try them at Xochitl during cocktails one night and the meat turned out to be tender, lean and delicious.) The tacos carnitas were less flavorful but still very good, served in a mole with shredded radish and chopped onion. Veggie tacos were fantastic, with marinated grilled veggies and colorful jalapeno loops to spice things up a notch. The guacamole and chips were served exactly like the ones at Distrito; the taste of lime permeated the avocado and a dusting of cotija cheese rounded out the flavors.
Back inside at the chef’s counter was an impressive spread of porchetta, mortadella sandwiches and an array of pizza bianca. The pizza was simple but absolutely fantastic, with fresh veggies served atop focaccia made in-house. For someone who grew up with an aversion to mushrooms, I am slowly starting to change my tune. The mushroom pizza was my favorite of the three versions I tried.
Return visit?
While I didn’t turn into a pumpkin at midnight, I was dragging in work the next day. Next time, I’ll give myself a two drink limit and a curfew. But there will definitely be a next time.
Amis
412 S. 13th St.
Philadelphia, PA 19147
amisphilly.com
Guapos Tacos
grg-mgmt.com
On the most unexpected of nights, I found myself in Tweed, seated at a banquette on the far side of the zinc bar, near the foot of the staircase, which serves as a sweeping centerpiece of the restaurant. Within seconds of my arrival, the intoxicating scent of a neighboring diner’s meal took hold of me. I asked our server what the man was eating, knowing that whatever it was, I had to have it. Spaghetti and meatballs was the surprising answer. With our entrée determined, my dining partner and I picked out a couple of the starters and decided to share everything. But first; a complimentary pail of delectable breads kicked off the meal.
Cheesesteak croquettes and a “sliceberg” salad arrived together. The fried croquettes were piping hot and served alongside sweet tomato compote, a successful homage to ketchup. I focused my attentions on the sliceberg, a slightly more modern take on the traditional wedge salad, but with all the right components.
Mama B’s spaghetti and meatballs were next. A blend of pork, beef and veal took center stage, a tangy tomato sauce complementing the flavors. On a more personal note, the dish was particularly enjoyable to me because the meatballs tasted exactly like my father’s recipe, doubling the comfort food factor.
Also of note is Tweed’s happy hour, a spectacular deal featuring beer, cocktails and nibbles at a fraction of the regular price.
Return visit?
Sooner than later, I hope!
Tweed
114 South 12th St.
Philadelphia, PA 19107
tweedrestaurant.com