Vintage-loving sex-positive LGBT feminist and blogger. Loves lingerie. Bit of a geek. Also... rarely wears lipstick.
The time has finally come. Yes, I've only gone and moved to a self-hosted WordPress install! Thanks to the fantastic technical skills of Amanda Jones, you can now find me over at...
"The ethical non-monogamist known as Lori has spent over 17 years involved in extensive field research in order to ensure BitchBuzz readers are well informed about sex. It's been a long and winding road, taking her from young ingénue to woman of the world, via an appearance on Channel 4's More Sex Tips for Girls. She is hoping to be able to fully reclaim the word slut for the good of womankind some time in 2012."So, did I achieve what I set out to do? It's pretty much impossible for one woman alone to change the opinions of the western world, but I like to think that I did a tiny little bit to help. If I changed the opinion of one reader, opened someone's mind to new possibilities, encouraged even one person to be proud that they are gay/bi/straight/kinky/slutty/asexual/whatever, then it will all have been worth it. I may have started out writing about sex because I thought I knew something about it, but I soon realised that there is so much more that I don't know.
As I mentioned on Rarely Wears Lipstick last month, Victoria's Secret opened its doors to the UK in July. I wanted to review one of the stores but, after reading some bloggers' experiences and seeing their photos of the flagship store, I was well aware that it's probably not my kind of thing. So, in the interest of balance, I asked a few of my friends to review it alongside my slightly less ranty burlesque alter-ego. Two Americans and two Brits: we are sceptic, fan, enthusiast and... intrigued. So, what did we think?
The Long Time Buyer – Kinki no Neko
Having lived most of my life in the States, Victoria’s Secret has never been a special occurrence for me. That is, until I lived in London. Needless to say, when they made their grand appearance here, I had to check it out for myself, and see how it compared with the US equivalent. To put it mildly, this VS is a bit more over the top. I discovered from talking with the lady in the VIP area (another London Bond Street speciality) that this is the only VS in the world that owns the building, and could therefore go hog wild with the decorating.
Many things remained the same; the store carried all the same styles and fashions in an array of bright colours. The attendants peppered the store with their tape measures, ready to assist and/or shoe-horn their way in. The dressing rooms were posh. The one unsurprisingly different thing was the price. What currently makes the difference for me is the lack of online presence. When in the States I could shop online and save 50% off the already cheaper US storefront prices, here there is no option. The prices seem absurd for the product, and I feel they are likely to lose footing in the mainstream as a result.
The Former Lover - Dharma Grrl
In the US I was a dedicated Victoria’s Secret customer who bought online and even had a store credit card. Having been away for five years, I’ve obviously had to shift my lingerie-buying habits to UK sellers. When I heard about Victoria’s Secret entering the UK market, I was both intrigued and sceptical. Why sceptical, you might ask? VS used to do my bra size measurements. After a few years of being in London, several of my friends told me they thought I was wearing the wrong size. I got re-sized recently and discovered that I had indeed been wearing entirely the wrong size all along. Since buying my new size my back problems have improved significantly; it has been such an improvement. With this in mind, I was particularly interested to have the London VS re-measure me.
A woman who worked at the incredibly glitzy New Bond Street shop (four floors with by far the most expensive Victoria’s Secret lingerie I’ve ever seen, including catwalk costumes decorating the place) measured me fully-clothed in the middle of the shop. She gave me the same measurements I’d been given by VS as a teen, and all the bras I subsequently tried in that size were far too small for me. I tried on the size recently recommended by a UK lingerie shop and voila – it fit properly! Otherwise my impressions of the shop, while aesthetically pleasing, were that the quality did not justify the prices and the very modern styles would not appeal to vintage fashionistas. VS’s quality and product diversity will need to improve to compete with UK-based lingerie sellers, not to mention their ability to take accurate measurements. In the meantime, I’ll happily stick with What Katie Did.
The Utter Sceptic - Miss Lolly Pops
The Bond Street flagship store, with its blacked out windows and shiny staircase, looks like a cross between a sex shop and Stringfellow's. It's kinda how I would imagine an Essex nightclub to look like if it were trying to be "classy". The store is themed: sexy stuff on the ground floor (including perfume), teen stuff downstairs (too hideous for me to even enter), and more casual stuff upstairs (including VS sweat pants and pyjamas). Rather than going for seasonal collections, they seem to be simply producing every bra style in All The Colours. This resulted in far too much choice and therefore quite a headache for indecisive old me. Perhaps that was due to the perfume though! Credit where credit's due, their complete and utter dedication to the moulded plunge bra has to be seen to be believed. However, £50 for something that looks like it came from La Senza is asking a bit much. Sadly, I had to leave before I even encountered the reported hideously bad fitting service. My senses were somewhat... overwhelmed!
The Glamour Puss - Honey Schnapps
Victoria’s Secret on Bond Street is a massive Barbie palace opposite Fenwicks (allegedly upset by their new brash American neighbours). Through the main entrance, you enter a shiny corridor lined with pink chandeliers adorned with bow pendants. The main staircase is a mega glass structure with a huge video backdrop of Victoria’s Secret shows. The staff are approachable and smile a lot, there are displays of fantasy costumes worn by ‘Angel’ models, a VIP room, even the lift button lights up pink and there are toilets so you never have to leave the palace!
My favourite range is Very Sexy on the shiny black ground floor. Blinged up push-up bras and thongs in loud colours and nightwear such as sheer leopard gowns - my kitsch heaven. Other ranges include the sporty Love collection (blinged up hoodies!) on the pastel-coloured Lower Ground, and the everyday Always Sexy (they love that word!) on the bright pink 1st floor. If you’re looking for grown-up sophistication then Victoria’s Secret isn’t for you. It’s girly, flirty and brash which explains the high number of teenage customers. If a Disney princess wanted lingerie for a sexy night in, she’d got to Victoria’s Secret on Bond Street.
Images by Cheryl. See her review of the Victoria's Secret Bond Street store at Invest in Your Chest.
Thanks very much to everyone who entered my Moranthology competition. In the grand tradition of Caitlin Moran's embarrassing stories, you shared some truly cringeworthy moments in your lives. As she came with me to the book launch (and therefore already has a copy of the book herself), I asked Amanda to choose who should win. After much thought, she decided that public nudity and humiliation in front of an audience is probably about as embarrassing as you can get. So, the winners are... Jade and Allie! I'll be in touch to get your postal addresses so that the publisher can send your books to you directly.
Jade's story
During my first year of Uni, I went to a cocktail bar with some friends. It was having some kind of soul/jazz/other sophisticated kind of music night, so I was attempting to demonstrate that I, on occasion, could too be sophisticated. I was doing this quite successfully by drinking cocktails out of ridiculous tiny glasses (and avoiding the hearty Tequila Sunrise, which came in a pint glass and looked like value for money) and by not going to the toilet ever, so that it wouldn't be obvious that, in heels, I walk like I've got skis strapped on.
However, after too many Barbie-sized cocktails, I remembered that I knew an artist who might be considered soul. Or jazz. Or something sophisticated. He wasn't a cool, obscure musician that I could chat about for hours (I only had his Best Of album, which I'd pinched off my Dad) but I could go up to the DJ, quietly request the song (Let's Stay Together by Al Green, that isn't the embarassing climax), and hopefully an amazing song would come on next and everyone would attribute it to me and they'd go, 'Wow, she is the queen of sophistication' and I would go, 'A-thank you, a-thank you' and tip my glass at them. The plan made far more sense at the time than it does now.
So I lurched over, on my skis, leaned in, and whispered my request to the DJ. He stared at me quite intensely, so obviously I assumed that my beauty was so bewitching, and my song choice so excellent, that he was lost for words. I actually smiled at him, sexily (drunkenly), and flapped my eyes around a bit. Then I realised the music had stopped. My boobs had fallen out of my dress and onto the record. My boobs had stopped the music. In the whole bar. And everybody was now staring at me. Except for my table of friends, who were laughing so hard that each had gone a different shade of purple and one had his inhaler out.
The DJ, God bless his soul, did not break eye contact with me but instead calmly peeled the record from my breasts, placed the record back on the turntable, and carried on like normal. I don't really remember the rest of the night, probably because I actually died of embarrassment and my ghost had to carry on with the evening instead. And also because of the cocktails
Allie's story
When I was 16, I was a very avid thespian, and I took advantage of any chance I got to do a bit of acting. One day, as part of my classes, I was scheduled to take part in two little class performances, playing a male role in both. I thought it was a fantastic idea to bind my chest, but the best I had to do it with was an Ace Bandage (something used to support joint sprains usually). So I did my hack job binding, donned a froofy silk shirt and went with it.
The first skit (in which I played Lysander) went without a hitch, but by the time I reached the second skit, I noticed that my Ace Bandage wasn't staying in place quite as well as I'd hoped. I didn't have time to check it though before I went on as Greek stud Adonis. As according to the script, Persephone and Aphrodite fought over me, each taking an arm and pulling back and forth....until suddenly the buttons of my shirt were flying everywhere. I looked down to see that, given the sad state of my bindings, I was pretty much standing bare chested to the whole room. The whole class, including the teacher (who was video taping this, I might add) burst into hysterics, while I hastily closed my shirt and asked to be excused for technical difficulties. I quickly realized that there was no salvaging the shirt, so I acted out the rest of the skit desperately holding my shirt closed. I got an enthusiastic round of applause.
"So what makes the ghd air different? Well, almost everything. Its 2,100W motor makes it much more powerful than a normal hairdryer, while the body itself is shaped to give you a faster blow-dry. The ghd air doesn’t just dry your hair, it uses advanced ionic technology to lock in moisture for softer, shinier results that last for longer, with far less frizzing. Variable power and temperature controls, plus the choice of two nozzles, allow you to tailor your blow-dry to your hair type, while a cool shot button helps you set your style in place with a blast of cold air."They should really add a bit about how it's so good that even a half asleep lazy woman in a rush can still get shiny hair with no help! My second attempt was last Sunday morning, before going out to meet friends for lunch (see photo). A tiny bit more time taken over the blow-drying, and then not sleeping on it straight afterwards, meant I achieved a nice glossy effect without much effort. My fringe in the photo was styled using straighteners, but the rest wasn't. Look... no frizz (unlike before)! My friends commented on how nice my hair looked and then (after telling them about my ghd air experiment), on how nice it felt too! So that's definitely a thumbs up from me. Just think how good I'll be with it once I've practised some more.
Recently, I was invited to sign up for a new website called Shopcade, have a play around with it and write a review. It was described to me as "an online platform that lets you curate the products you love and gives you cash back when you purchase them. There are also competitions, the opportunity to earn cash back if followers buy from you, and a host of other awesome features. It works a little like Pinterest, so it’s fairly self-explanatory and intuitive." Having never used Pinterest, I had no idea whether being like it would ensure ease of use, but I did at least get the concept - click a button to add stuff to your online collection of pretty pictures. Seeing as any pinboard of mine would probably be filled with photos of clothes I like, this sounded like it might be my kind of thing.
The site combines two of many people's favourite pastimes: social media and shopping. It's not all fashion either - there are so many products on there that it can be tricky to know where to start! I signed up quickly and easily, by linking the site to my Facebook account and before long was selecting items to add to my personal Shopcade. Although this makes it very easy to get started, it does mean that you can't select a username or photo specifically for this site. Seeing as my Facebook account is rather private, this isn't a solution I'm 100% happy with. Given a choice, I'd rather tie this in to my Twitter account - perhaps this is something they've got planned for the future? The reason they link you in to an existing social media platform is so that they can share your picks with your friends, and therefore lure some of them in to joining Shopcade too. That said, it's considerably less annoying than some apps that can be added on Facebook, so I doubt it'll lose me any friends just yet!
It's not as pretty as Tumblr, but it's a fun way to shop and discover stuff you wouldn't usually notice. You can follow brands, as well as other users, and it's easy to keep an eye out for exciting new products as soon as you log in. There are a few perks on Shopcade too - cashback when you buy items via the site and discounts you can unlock by telling your friends - which seem like they would be useful to anyone who shops a lot. Shopcade also have a fashion month campaign titled 'Shopcade Trend Scout'. You can win the ultimate Autumn Winter look by creating a Shopcade account and completing the Fashion Week Mission, plus there's a competition where they'll be asking their Twitter followers to upload photos with the hashtag #shopcade in order to win a retro camera from Firebox.com. If all this sounds like it's up your street and you want to set up your own Shopcade account, don't forget to follow me. You can also follow Shopcade on Twitter. Happy shopping!
On Sunday afternoon, I headed across London in the sunshine to the What Katie Did boutique for the launch of their AW12 collection (and a sneak peek at SS13 too). It's always a real pleasure to visit their beautiful little corner of Portobello. Not just because of their lovely lingerie, but because of the warm friendly welcome they always give every single customer who walks through their door. While we waited for the fashion show to begin - enjoying cupcakes and cocktails courtesy of the fantastic Vintage Patisserie - I drooled over the gorgeous Cabaret knickers with their art deco 'modesty panel'. Katie told me that they were partly inspired by a sheer pair of vintage briefs that she found which had a fig leaf embroidered on the front! She decided that, although the idea was beautiful, a slightly less quirky design might be a bigger sales hit. Those briefs are already on my wishlist.
When the time came for the fashion show, there was quite a crowd of us gathered excitedly. The models sashayed around the store in the latest styles, to vintage music, while we all brandished our cameras or mobile phones. There were some definite highlights for me in this section. The Clarice lingerie in beautiful vintage colour eau de nil is absolutely stunning. There is a 40s style bra with beautiful vintage detailing, which combines beautifully with the classic side fastening French knickers, plus a more modern bra, briefs and suspender belt for those who prefer a more structured look. Those who were already a fan of WKD's Lulu lingerie will be pleased to hear that the red organza with black lace overlay is back for this season in a bullet bra, underwired bra, deep knickers and suspender belt. There's also some skimpier knickers, for those of you who just don't do big pants.
After a short break for a delightfully saucy burlesque performance from Miss Miranda and Sophia St. Villier, we were then treated to a peek at the SS13 collection. Red and cream, sheer and satin, twists on existing styles, and exciting new directions. There was even a beautiful variation on the most recent WKD bikini, with bows down the side of the briefs. Just as well they have some really pretty stuff in store this season, because it's a long time to wait until spring!
UPDATE: You can see the fashion show for yourself (and an edited version of the burlesque performance) in The Vintage News' video from the day.
Women are all over magazines. Open one up - whichever gender of adult it's aimed at - and you will most probably see far more images of women than you will of men. This means that we're analysed and judged far more often than men are in magazines, yet we still spend our money on them. Loads of cash for something that, most probably, makes us feel shitty? And then we spend time complaining about that*? As Sali Hughes wrote in The Guardian when Brigitte magazine announced they were ditching their 'real' women as models policy, "we as consumers need to decide where we really stand and vote with our wallets — not continue to say we want one thing while consistently preferring another."
This week, I did a magazine comparison to give you a little bit of insight without having to spend money. The September issues of Esquire and Elle were bundled together by the publisher for an (apparently) bargain price, so I thought that it would be a purchase which would give me something to read on a train as well as some blog fodder. As you might imagine, there was a lot of content that would fill many women with rage. Plenty of images which portray women as vacuous bints in skimpy clothing. Many WTactualF moments. As far as I'm concerned, most (if not all) of these were provided by the title aimed at women. Yes, Elle, I'm looking at you with my stern face.
That particular issue of Elle comprised 376 pages (excluding the cover), 168 pages of which was display advertising (45% of the mag), 32 pages was classified advertising (8% of the mag) which means a total of 53% of the magazine is advertising. There were 59 pages of fashion shoot images (including those accompanying interviews), which was around 15% of the mag**. In addition to Elle's main subject of fashion, this month covered: career, beauty, books, film, music, dating, astrology and travel. (Yes, astrology.) Elle has a lot of messy pages called 'edits', which are like mood boards and perhaps of little interest to all but the fashion obsessed. To me, they were like the sort of thing an art student does to quickly fill up a sketchbook, giving them something to show their tutor before a deadline. After wading through masses of advertising and yawn-worthy fashion 'edits', I finally reached the section of the magazine with actual content. Proper fashion spreads and decent articles, all squished at the back of the magazine. Somewhat confusingly, they also put an article on abortion in the beauty section. It's as if the content was an afterthought once the advertising was sorted.
In contrast, September's issue of Esquire was only 200 pages (excluding the cover), 79 pages of which was display advertising (39% of the mag) with no classified ads. It was a special style issue so I counted 42 pages of fashion shoot images (including those accompanying interviews), which is a massive 21% of the mag**. In addition to all the menswear, this month covered: cars, food, travel, drinks, tech, grooming, culture, wisdom. (Why can't women's magazines have a monthly 'wisdom' feature?) Interestingly, the "what women want" feature mentioned on the cover of Esquire is actually a report on what (heterosexual) women like men to wear, and the writer actually asked other women too. The only really annoying thing about this magazine was that, as with many women's fashion mags, there were a lot of models who looked far too young for the clothes they were wearing. Thankfully, this was made up for with fashion shoots featuring David Beckham and Matt Smith. Esquire contained minimal laddishness and maximum interesting content (for a big name monthly glossy, anyway).
So, what did I discover from this little exercise? Well, not much really, as I didn't go for a truly rant-worthy title like Cosmopolitan or FHM. I did discover that, if this was supposed to be an equivalent pairing of titles, the publisher thinks that men are interested in a far wider variety of topics than women. Come on, we all like food and drink, right? Women drive cars too! To be honest, on this evidence, women's monthly glossies are still not worth the money they charge and are only really useful for aspirational lifestyle drooling. If you want a women's mag that inspires and doesn't make you feel shit about your fashion sense, dress size, skin, hair etc, then buy a copy of Psychologies. If you want a bit of fashion, grab a free copy of Stylist or Shortlist. Or you could, ya know, try the internet.
*I realise that I'm doing this now, so will keep my spending and whining to a minimum.
**My page counting was very rough, so all data is approximate!
"Framed! explores the cultural significance of contemporary eyewear and celebrates the rise and rise of fashion’s ultimate luxury accessory. Charting eyewear’s historical development from the mid-twentieth century until the present day, its role in fashion and popular culture is explored via the use of iconic archival objects and imagery."I have always loved the look of glasses and have frequently considered their potential as a style statement, even though I've never really viewed them as a luxury fashion item. Silly really. If you wear them all the time, then why not select a frame shape which suits and a brand which says something about you? Eyewear is as important to the luxury market as watches and it's (usually) more affordable too.
I am an online writer who specialises in fashion - specifically vintage/ethical and lingerie - feminism, sex and relationships. I have appeared in The Guardian, Glamour, The Metro, Attitude, and Channel 4's More Sex Tips For Girls in the UK, as well as Swedish-language magazine Ny Tid (Finland).
I was part of the fashion panel at SHINE 2011, the UK’s leading unconventional conference for socially-minded entrepreneurs. I have also been a panelist at the first sex blogger and erotica writer's conference Eroticon 2012, and was a speaker at female blogger conference Cybher12. In 2012 I was a finalist in the Writer category of the Erotic Awards.
I have been writing for a number of websites, including my own, since 2002 under the names Lori Smith and Lorraine Smith. I am currently studying MA History and Culture of Fashion (part-time) at London College of Fashion.
I am a contributor to the Style Advice section of the Ms Wanda's Wardrobe ethical fashion website. I write about ways for fashionable people to incorporate eco, ethical and sustainable options into their wardrobes.
http://www.mswandas.co.uk/
I have been blogging in one form or another since 2002, but I started to regularly write on my own site in March 2003. My personal blog's current incarnation, Rarely Wears Lipstick, is a lifestyle blog "with a hint of style and a splash of feminism".
http://www.rarelywearslipstick.com/
I was a regular contributor to the women's lifestyle website BitchBuzz for almost three years. I wrote a weekly Sex & Relationships column, plus additional stories when required for the culture, life, style and news sections. For a short while, I also assisted the Editor with community aspects of the site by engaging with and updating our readership via social media.
http://www.bitchbuzz.com/
I wrote many articles and reviews for UK feminist website The F-Word, under the name Lorraine Smith. Links to these can be found in the archives and on the contributors page - http://www.thefword.org.uk/general/contributors